Monday, May 31, 2010

Growing Rose Trees


Looking for a colorful way to make a grand statement? If you like to potter around in the garden, then do what the nobles of the past did and surround your home with rose trees. Doing so will definitely add an air of elegance to any landscape.
Rose trees, also known as Rose Standards, differ from rose plants or rose shrubs in that they are actually cultivated to resemble a tree. A rose tree consists of a long, slender cane, 32 – 36 inches (about 1 meter) in length, void of any foliage from which an abundance of rose flowers literally burst forth. The 'tree' is created by making two grafts: one at the top of the central cane to support the hybrid tee, grandiflora or floribunda and one at the bottom, at the rootstock.
Miniature roses are created in a similar manner, the difference being that the central cane measures only approximately 24 inches. Whether regular-sized or miniature, the end result is a unique rose that has the shape of a lollipop.
To endure the weight of the grafted rose on top, the central cane usually must be staked. Extra care must be taken in areas prone to wind, where staking is especially important. Another problem with rose trees, besides the usual pests and diseases that plague all roses, is the sun. The cane part of the tree rose is especially susceptible to sun scald.
During the winter months it's difficult to protect rose trees from the cold. With regular roses, all that's required to prepare for winter is a layer of mulch around the base. But with the rose tree, to be protected from the cold, mulch must be placed all the way up the cane. The only way to accomplish this is either by relocating the rose tree during the winter, or by engineering a container made from wire mesh to surround the cane that can be filled with mulch.
Besides the seasonal rose tree care, growers have to diligently prune rose trees to achieve the right look. The central cane should never be pruned, only the flowering top part. How you prune will depend on the type of rose that sits atop the cane so know the right way before beginning. Improperly pruned roses, regardless of type, are more prone to diseases. And with the rose tree, it can cause an uneven distribution of weight that could break the stems.
You'll find several different species of rose trees. One of the more recent to hit the market is the 'double decker' rose tree that produces two layers of flowers. One is on top, as you would normally expect to see, and the other layer begins closer to the ground although this layer is not considered ground covering. Yellow Ribbons Double Decker is a beauty. Another popular rose tree is the 'weeping' tree where arched rose stems overflowing with roses cascade towards the ground. The Roseberry Blanket Weeping Tree Rose produces large-sized fuchsia blooms.
Even though Rose Standards require more love and care, the attention they'll get when they're established and in full bloom is well worth the effort. They'll add height to your garden and bursts of vibrant color throughout your landscape.

Pruning rose bushes is intimidating to many gardeners, but actually very good for the plants. Becoming an accomplished rose pruner takes time and practice, but keep in mind that it is very hard to kill a rose with bad pruning. While there is a great deal of disagreement among rose experts regarding how and when to prune roses, it is generally agreed that most mistakes will grow out very quickly and it is better to make a good effort at pruning roses than to let them grow rampant.

When to Prune Roses
Timing is determined by the class of the rose plant and the zone in which it is growing. Most rose pruning is done in the spring, with the blooming of the forsythia as a signal to get moving. If you don't have forsythia, watch for when the leaf buds begin to swell on your rose plants, meaning the bumps on the canes get larger and reddish in color.
Hybrid tea roses are the most particular about pruning. If you don't know what type of rose you have, watch the plant for a season. If it blooms on the new growth it sends out that growing season, prune while dormant or just about to break dormancy, as stated above. If it blooms early, on last year's canes, don't prune until after flowering.
Some general pruning guidelines by rose classification:

BLOOMS ONCE, ON NEW GROWTH
Modern Ever-Blooming Roses & Floribunda: These bloom best on the current season's growth. Prune hard (½ to 2/3 the plant's height) in the spring and remove old woody stems. Leave 3-5 healthy canes evenly spaced around the plant. Cut them at various lengths from 18 - 24 inches, to encourage continuous blooming.
Hybrid Teas & Grandiflora: These also bloom on new wood and should be pruned in early spring. Remove dead and weak wood. Create an open vase shape with the remaining canes by removing the center stems and any branches crossing inwards. Then reduce the length of the remaining stems by about ½ or down to 18 - 24 inches. You can allow the older, stronger stems to be a bit longer than the new growth.

BLOOMS ONCE, ON OLD WOOD
Ramblers: Prune to remove winter damage and dead wood or to shape and keep size in check. Ramblers bloom only once and can be pruned right after flowering, all the way back to 2-3 inches if you wish.

REPEAT BLOOMERS
Modern Shrub Roses: This group is repeat bloomers, blooming on mature, but not old, woody stems. Leave them unpruned to increase vigor for the first 2 years and then use the "one-third" method. Each year remove one-third of the oldest canes (in addition to any dead, diseased or dying canes).
Climbers: Climbers may repeat bloom. Prune early to remove winter damage and dead wood. Prune after flowering to shape and keep their size in check.
Bourbons and Portlands: These will repeat bloom, blooming on both new and old wood. Prune to remove dead wood before flowering. A harder pruning and shaping can be done after the first flowering.

MINIMAL PRUNING NEEDED
Alba, Centifolia, Damasks, Gallica, and Mosses: This group blooms only once, producing flowers on old wood and don't require much pruning at all. Prune only to remove dead or thin wood and to shape the plants and prune after flowering.
Miniature Roses: Prune only to shape. Cut back to an outward facing bud after blooming.

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