Basic Pruning Of Fruit Trees

STAKING
Any fruit tree that is to be planted in the open ground, as opposed to against a wall or fence, will require staking to ensure that it stays upright and is able to carry a crop of heavy fruit. Use treated, round stakes it is harder to tie a tree tightly to a square stake and the corners can damage the tree.

Although there is a fashion among ornamental gardeners for stakes angled at 45 degrees, they can look cumbersome and untidy if planting a row of fruit trees. They can also be a trip hazard if hidden among flower beds. Upright stakes are far easier to get close to the root system, and as most trees are planted bare root it is easier to get the stake into the right position. A 45-degree stake is always needed for containerized plants so the root ball is not damaged. Such an angled stake is usually driven into the ground after planting, while an upright one should be inserted in the ground prior to planting. Both types of stake should be positioned on the side from which the prevailing wind comes. This is to prevent the tree from being blown onto the stake and so damaged.

On a spindle tree it is essential that the upright stake is as tall as the eventual height of the tree, which may eventually reach 2.5m (8ft). Such a tree requires two tree ties — one placed about half way up the tree and another about two-thirds from the top of the tree.

Bush and standard trees require a shorter stake, usually reaching to just below the crown (or top four or five buds on a maiden whip). It should be tied close to the top of the stake.

Use tree ties with padding to prevent the tree from rubbing against the stake. A pair of tights can be a useful, cheaper alternative because they are flexible and will also cushion the tree from the stake. String or stretchy elastic should only be used for tying in new growth and should be removed each year. Tree ties should never be over tight. Check them each winter and loosen if necessary.
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